Italy’s Grand National – Il Palio – Siena
The famous event, held twice a summer in the historic Tuscan town of Siena, is a bareback horse race in honour of the Virgin Mary. The Piazza del Campo main square holds 25,000 people for the race and you don’t need a ticket!
Follow up:
It is held on the 2nd of July and 16th August and is a world famous spectacular. To gauge levels of international enthusiasm, think of the running of the Bulls in Pamplona. The regions of Siena are split into Contrada’s, of which there are 17, and only 10 of these get to enter a horse and rider in each race.
The first race on July 2nd – Palio di Provenzano is held in celebration of the Feast of the Visitation and the date of a festival in honour of the Madonna di Provenzano. The second race is held on August 16th - Palio dell’Assunta, the day after the Feast of the Assumption, and likewise dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
Before the race begins the riders and horses parade through the streets, the Corteo Storico. It also includes Alfieri or flag-wavers in medieval costumes. At around sunset a canon is fired to signal that the race will soon begin. However the actual start of the race is a little more complex. Nine horses are held between two starting ropes, while the 10th, “Rincorsa”, waits outside the Piazza’s gates. When the Rincorsa decides to enter the arena the starter will lower the rope and the race begins. It is believed bribery takes place as to when the Rincorsa enters, to time it when one horse is settled or when one particular horse is unsettled.
My personal Contrada (a bit like supporting a football team!) is Aquila (The Eagle). Aquila is one of only four “Noble” Contrada’s. A title bestowed by the Habsburg Emperor Charles V, out of gratitude for the warm reception he received in Siena in 1536. Other Noble Contrada’s have gained their recognition from the infamous Battle of Montaperti in 1260. Ashamedly we have not won since 1992, so I am hopeful this year will be our chance.
I went a few years ago and it is an amazing spectacle......we waited in the Piazza del Campo for 3 hours for the race to begin. It was a real mix of Sienese, Italians, and young Eurorailer’s and American tourists. The race was exhilarating, short and wonderfully primeval. Can you imagine the intensity of the Grand National if it was set over 400 metres?
The best part of “Il Palio” is milling around well into the evening as the winning Contrada celebrates long into the night with the Jockey held high! All the losing Contrada’s have communal feasts in their respective streets on huge tables. It is wonderful meandering round the back streets after the race, the heat of the day has gone and you hear the classical Italian sounds of music, conversation and clinking wine glasses!
Chris Brierley
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02/12/09 11:10:03 am, 